Perfumer&flavourist, sobre el aceite esencial de paramela en la prestigiosa revista internacional

Perfumer&flavourist, sobre el aceite esencial de paramela en la prestigiosa revista internacional

Adesmia Boronioides, also called Paramela belongs to the family of Fabacea. It is a small bush that grows up between 0.4 and 2 meters high. fotosdanielgbueno from Adobe Stock

The constant challenge of perfumers is to be able to satisfy and predict the requirements of increasingly demanding and sophisticated consumers.

Although the current context increasingly encourages the use of natural ingredients, considered purer and safer, we can be faced with the dilemma of a possible depletion of resources. Our commitment to sustainable product development confronted us with the need to find new alternatives to expand the palette of ingredients without losing sight of compliance with regulations on their safe use, their stability and the natural availability of such ingredients.

Chemical molecules with a high-impact aroma and a low perception threshold gave us the “silver bullet” and opened the door to the development of new and imaginative creations with unique characteristics.

Fragrance Creation

The perfumer’s work requires ceaseless motivation and creativity.

Although the palette of ingredients is wide, it is essential to find new combinations and discover new species with previously unknown nuances, with the sole purpose of surprising and meeting the demands of the increasingly demanding consumers.

The creation of a fragrance, as in other artistic endeavors, requires talent and knowledge to build structures that allow the transmission of emotions and feelings through olfactory perception.

The combination of ingredients with different olfactory nuances can produce exquisite accords, but can also result in an unpleasant, short-lasting or simply inconsequential aroma.

When the sensation is pleasant, it is treasured as such in our olfactory memory.

Although the artistic part of creating a perfume is predominantly due to the talent that the perfumer possesses in selecting raw materials and combining them harmoniously at the right levels, this would not be possible without arduous training, scientific knowledge and being permanently on the lookout for new aromatic sensations.

In the current context of modern perfumery, there is a great appreciation for organically certified natural ingredients, while floral notes continue to be the main protagonists, not only in fine perfumery but also in a wide variety of other products.

The challenge is continuous and, in this search for alternatives, the commitment to the safe use of ingredients, compliance with the regulatory framework set out by IFRA (International Fragrance Research Association) and caring for the environment should not be left aside.

A Patagonian Exquisite

In the city of Esquel (Province of Chubut, Argentina), a native species that grows on both sides of the Patagonian Andes has unique olfactory characteristics and its availability has led to the development of new and imaginative creations with truly novel nuances.

Its name is Paramela and its botanical species is Adesmia Boronioides.

Its exquisite essential oil is extracted through the pruning of wild plants, occurring in a sustainable and well-monitored environment that ensures the natural reproduction and conservation of the species.

With a sweet, fruity, woody, somewhat spicy note, Paramela has a little of each of the most important flower essences that we are aware of. It has the exquisiteness of rose, the freshness of freesia, the hesperidic/citric touch of the orange blossom, the sweetness of tuberose, the spicy side of ylang-ylang, the sophistication of jasmine and the herbaceous side of geranium.

These characteristics support its use in numerous applications in the field of perfumery and in the creation of exquisite, innovative and sophisticated aromas. It harmonizes with all kinds of ingredients: citrus, sweet and creamy woods such as sandalwood, or drier and more earthy varieties such as vetiver. In aromatic and herbal accords, with basil and spices or with amber and musk notes.

The use of Paramela has no limits.

With diverse florals in feminine compositions or with oak moss, tonka bean and vanilla in genderless aromas, the results are as surprising as they are modern. The practically non-existent presence of allergens and regulated substances in its composition makes it attractive to be used with total confidence in a wide range of products and not only in fine perfumery.

Paramela Essential Oil: Olfactive Description & Propoerties

The extraction of the essential oil is carried out by steam stripping mainly from the stems and leaves, its yield being 0.15% on average and its appearance is a viscous yellow liquid with a pleasant aroma. It has great stability against temperature and UV radiation.

Having proven its harmlessness on the skin and its properties for the treatment of joint pain, bumps, sprains, muscle aches and cramps, Paramela oil is highly recommended for use in massage oils and aromatherapy. It has also found applications in cosmetics for its proven efficacy in the treatment of sensitive skin (rosacea) and for its smoothing effect on the hair.

The olfactory profile of this oil is unusual and very interesting with great tenacity and fixation.

The chemical composition of Paramela oil includes certain products that structurally resemble an ingredient widely used in perfumery known by the trade name of “Cashmeran” exquisite and natural note Woody and Amber (Cashmere Wood).

Nota completa en: https://www.perfumerflavorist.com/fragrance/ingredients/article/22923110/inside-paramela-essential-oil-perfumery-usage-chromatographic-profile-and-chemical-composition